Before starting, you ensure your hands and nails are well cleaned. File your nails if necessary, so that there are no snags. By doing this you prevent damages on the face and risk of infection.
Always work using clean materials (sponges, brushes, spatulas, water bowls) and change the water regularly.
Get the subject to put on any clothes beforehand that have to be put on over the head. Protect your models clothing with a hairdressing cape or a towel.
Dark colours (red lips) and dark lines (around the eyes and when modelling) create a harsh effect on black and white pictures. A make-up with soft colours and lines is therefore very suitable for a black and white portrait.
Hint: green is the colour that works best in terms of grey scale shades when converted into black and white. This makes green eye shadow a good choice for black and white photographs.
First degrease and clean the skin you are going to be working on with Grimas Cleansing Lotion. Then wipe dry with a tissue.
With a dry or sensitive skin, you can apply Grimas Under Make-up Base. Allow 10 minutes for it to be absorbed before you continue.
In this example we are working with a base of Grimas Cake Make-up.
Work the base out properly, up into the hairline, and do not forget the ears and neck. This is how you avoid a mask-like effect.
Hint: If necessary you can press the sponge onto a tissue to remove excess moisture.
Take the make-up sponge between the fingertips and squeeze it together to create a round surface. With this surface the make-up can be applied.
Test the colour intensity on the hand. You apply the Cake Make-up evenly from top to bottom. Cake Make-up dries quickly, so a beautiful result means you have to work fast. Any stripes can be gently rubbed away with a soft tissue or cloth.
Allow to settle in and remove the excess powder with a Powder-Rouge Brush.
Use a brush to take out Eye Shadow/Rouge in the desired colour and determine the colour intensity on the hand before you apply the powder. You comb the eyebrow hair (for example with a clean, dry mascara roller or eyebrow comb) in a downward direction and fill in the upper edge. Use an MS2 or MS4 brush for this (with obliquely cut hairs)
Hint: you can also use a brush (for instance R4 or M4) of which you yourself have cut the hairs diagonally.
Work from the centre to the outer areas and do not begin right where it starts. Then you push the hairs upwards and fill in the eyebrow a little from the bottom. Brush up the eyebrows.
Use the brush to apply a thin layer of Eyebrow Fixer to the eyebrows. Use the brush to fix the hairs in the right direction. You can repeat the process several times, each time only using a little of the product.
By playing with light and dark eye shadow colours you can give the eye an ideal shape. The general rule is: light brings things into prominence, dark makes them recede.
In principle, you apply a light-coloured eye shadow to the upper eyelid, a dark colour in the eye fold and a light colour to the eyebrow arch. First apply the light shadow with the applicator and work it out with a latex sponge.
Pearl Eye Shadow can also be applied as an eyeliner straight from the cup (also test on the hand first) and can easily be faded once it has dried.
Apply the eyeliner with an MR 1 or MR 2 brush.
Do not start too close to the inner corner of the eye and stop at the outer corner of the eye.
If you want to draw the eyeliner line further, do this while the eyes are open and do not pull the skin. Let the line run a little upwards from a quarter of the way from the end. If necessary, thicken the drawn line to the desired shape.
Lower eyelash edge: apply the eyeliner with a brush from the outer corner towards the inner side, but do not finish too close to the inner corner of the eye.
If required, you can apply mascara for a second or third time by brushing along the eyelashes using the brush in the direction of the outer corner of the eye. This makes the eyes appear more almond-shaped.
Draw with a pencil to draw the outline of the lips. Work from the outside inwards for the upper lip, and from the inside outwards for the lower lip. Use the pencil to correct the contours and the lipstick will then also not run so quickly
Hint: if the tip feels hard on the skin and won't draw properly, then warm the tip of the pencil in your hand or sharpen the tip again.
Do not apply rouge to the cheekbones.
Do model the face to create depth. Work on a dry base, so on skin that has been powdered off. To model (shape) the face and emphasise the bone structure, use Grimas Compact Powder (no. 9).
You should make everything you want not to be noticed (obscured) darker than the basic surroundings. You create shadows under the cheekbone, on the temples and beneath the chin.
Store the make-up in a dry and cool place until the next time you use it.
The sponges are disposable so you can throw them away after use. If you do want to reuse them, first rinse them under the tap with some soap or shampoo or wash them in the washing machine (in a net bag or pillow case), set to at least 60°C. You can also wash the (Velour) Powder Puff in the washing machine.
You can clean brushes with water and soap or shampoo. The Powder and Blusher Brush is cleaned like this too. Put the moist hairs of the brushes back into shape by hand after washing. Dry the brushes lying flat on a towel and do not place them upright, since that causes the moisture to run down into the shaft.