PUT READY

Set out ready for use:
Towel / cape
Water bowls
Cotton buds
Toothbrush
Tissues

Do not use ready-to-use cleansing cloths.

PREPARATION

Before starting, you ensure your hands and nails are well cleaned. File your nails if necessary, so that there are no snags. By doing this you prevent damages on the face and risk of infection.

Always work using clean materials (sponges, brushes, spatulas, water bowls) and change the water regularly.

Get the subject to put on any clothes beforehand that have to be put on over the head. Protect your models clothing with a hairdressing cape or a towel.

Ageing a young face is based on a simple principle. Always go along with the features of to the person you are ageing. A pinched face with a clear bone structure demands another approach than a spherical, round face. When ageing a face, we use Crème Make-up Pure or Covercream Pure, because they can be applied easily and blend beautifully.

When you are experienced in ageing you can also choose to apply a base of Cake Make-up and shade and lighten with Eyeshadow/Rouge on this.

CRÈME MAKE-UP PURE = Crème Make-up Pure
COVERCREAM PURE = Covercream Pure
CAKE MAKE-UP = Cake Make-up
EYESHADOW/ROUGE = Eyeshadow/Rouge
APPLYING A BASE

Apply a base with Grimas Crème Make-up Pure. The older skin has a pale colour because of the diminished blood supply. By applying a light, dull base tint (for example OA or 1007) you directly get an older effect. Work out the base on the ears and in the neck.

CRÈME MAKE-UP PURE = Crème Make-up Pure
Take the Crème Make-up Pure out with a clean spatula and work from the spatula. Apply it with a slightly damp latex sponge or make-up sponge onto the skin. By applying the base on the lips they appear narrower - a trait of ageing.
CRÈME MAKE-UP PURE = Crème Make-up Pure
For ageing we use Crème Make-up Pure because this works out easily and has good fluidic properties. For shadowing purposes, dark brown is used.

Depending on the desired effect and the situation (nearby, far off), you can apply stronger or less strong lines. To create a more subtle effect, you can mix the dark brown with the basic colour on the spatula or on your hand. This makes the colour that you use for shadowing less powerful.

The more subtle you work, the more natural the result.

CRÈME MAKE-UP PURE = Crème Make-up Pure
SHADOWING/HIGHLIGHTING

Important areas for shading are the eye sockets, the temples, the side of the nose and below the cheekbones. The vertical frown wrinkle and the naso-labial ('nose-lip') fold are also important areas to shadow.

On an older person the skin, where there is little or no bone, is sunken. On a younger person these parts are darkened (shadowed), the skin will appear to be really sunken at that spot.
When you age somebody with a spherical, round face the bone structure is hardly visible. In this case, do not shade the cheekbone on the round cheeks below, but emphasize on the cheeks. Draw a line below the nose-lips line that goes underneath the cheeks, for a baggy effect.

You draw the lines with a flat sable-hair brush. By placing it obliquely on the skin you get a sharp edge on one side and a fading effect on the other side.
To determine which side should be sharp and which side faded, you start from the centre of the face (nose). Create a fading effect towards the outside.
The lines from the eyes towards the forehead (vertical frowning wrinkles) and the naso-labial ('nose-lip') fold are therefore sharp in the direction of the nose and more blurred towards the outside. The naso-labial fold is easier to locate if one grimaces. The length of this line also determines the character to be made up (the longer, the more severe).
Bags under the eyes are sharp on the lower side and must be faded towards the upper side. The parts of the face that have not been shaded now seem to have been brought forward.

Please note: there is a tendency to draw in all the lines (wrinkles, crow's feet) when doing the make-up. When used for large distances (theatre, opera) it is advisable not to do this. These smaller lines will not be noticed, even from a short distance away and will appear dark smudges from a larger distance.

Place shadowlines near the neck from the corners of the jaw. These lines nearly come together at the neck. Between the lines you can lighten if needed.
If the non-shaded parts are lightened, this will enhance the effect of bringing those areas "forward".
Apply white make-up to the higher parts of the forehead, above the temple, next to the frown wrinkles on the wings of the nose and on top of the nose. The eyebag is also lightened a little.

Between the higher parts of the brow some subtle shadowing is done to generate more depth.

By lightening below the chinline, you suggest a sagging jawline and/or a double chin.

If the non-shaded parts are lightened, this will enhance the effect of bringing those areas "forward".
With sagging eyelids you suggest the weakening of an older skin. Draw a line from the center of the eyebrow to the outer corner of the eye and lighten the skin above this line; this is the sagging part. Next to this you apply brown.

Now you lighten the cheekbones and the outsides of the naso-labial fold, the higher part above the upper lip, the corners of the mouth and on the chin.

The shading and lightening must blend into the basic colour in a natural way. If necessary, blur the segments and lines that are to be faded with the fingers or a dry make-up sponge. You do this with a dabbing action, without wiping.
You powder the face off with Grimas Transparent Powder, Fixing Powder or Make-up Powder. Apply the powder on top of the make-up. You can do this with a Make-up Sponge or a Velour Powder Puff.
= Transparent Powder
FIXING POWDER = Fixing Powder
MAKE-UP POWDER = Make-up Powder
MAKE-UP SPONGE = Make-up Sponge
VELOUR POWDER PUFF = Velour Powder Puff
Allow to settle in and then remove any excess powder with a Powder Rouge Brush.

If you have worked with Cake Make-up and Eyeshadow/Rouge then there is no need to powder off.

BRUSHES POWDER ROUGE = Brushes Powder/Rouge
CAKE MAKE-UP = Cake Make-up
EYESHADOW/ROUGE = Eyeshadow/Rouge
By powdering off, you have fixed the make-up.
Hint: if someone has expressive dark eyelashes or is very young, you can make the eyelashes 'colourless' by applying a little Water Make-up (Pure) to them in a light skin colour.
WATER MAKE-UP (PURE) = Water Make-up Pure
Colour the hair and the eyebrows grey using Grimas Water Make-up (Pure). For very dark hair; you use white otherwise use grey. For the head hair you use a sponge or a toothbrush; for the eyebrows or a moustache you use a (artist's) brush.
WATER MAKE-UP (PURE) = Water Make-up Pure
SYSTEM PACKAGING = Water bowls
For the head hair you use a sponge or a toothbrush; for the eyebrows or a moustache you use a (artist's) brush.
The hands and neck will also have to be made-up to prevent large contrasts. Use Cake Make-up for this purpose, because this stains less.

The principle of shadowing and lightening is also applied here.

CAKE MAKE-UP = Cake Make-up
You apply Cake Make-up with a slightly damp make-up sponge. If you work with too much moisture, streaks will form. You can press the make-up sponge down onto a tissue to remove any excess moisture.

Take the make-up sponge between the fingertips and squeeze it together to create a round surface. With this surface the make-up can be applied.

CAKE MAKE-UP = Cake Make-up
MAKE-UP SPONGE = Make-up Sponge
Cake Make-up dries quickly, so you need to work quickly to achieve a nice result. If the result is not even, turn the sponge that you worked with over and use the clean side to even out the make-up. Any stripes after drying can be gently rubbed away with a soft tissue or cloth.
CAKE MAKE-UP = Cake Make-up
On top of the hands and on the sides of the fingers you apply the used base tint very lightly. Use Cake Make-up for this purpose, because this stains less. You shadow with a dark colour Eyeshadow/Rouge (for example 566) the sides of the fingers; stay away from the knuckles. Continue shadowing in the direction of the wrist. Lighten the top of the fingers and the knuckles with a light colour Eyeshadow/Rouge (for example 001). Continue lightening between the dark lines in the direction of the wrist. The shading and lightening must blend into the basic colour in a natural way.
CAKE MAKE-UP = Cake Make-up
EYESHADOW/ROUGE = Eyeshadow/Rouge
For an extra effect you can give the eyes a darkish red line along the bottom of the eyelashes.
After shading and lighting out you can apply fine red veins using a Stubble Sponge. Hold the Stipple Sponge between the fingers and compress it slightly, so that it becomes a bit convex. Take a little of the required make-up and dab it with the sponge onto the hand to test the colour intensity. Then work dabbing onto the skin: do not use a brushing motion, since you would remove the structured effect.

Squeeze the Stipple Sponge, press it onto the make-up (dark red colour), test it on your hand and apply to the cheekbone, not too high or too low.

STIPPEL SPONGE = Stipple sponge
The shading and lightening must blend into the basic colour in a natural way. If necessary, blur the segments and lines that are to be faded with the fingers or a dry make-up sponge. You do this with a dabbing action, without wiping.
When you want to attach sideburns and a moustache, you free the skin of make-up where they are to be glued on. Cleanse the skin afterwards with Grimas Cleansing Lotion. This with referencento a better hold.
CLEANSING LOTION = Cleansing Lotion
REMOVING THE PRODUCTS

You can remove Crème Make-up Pure with Grimas Cleansing Cream, Multi Remover or Make-up Remover. Cleanse the skin afterwards with cleansing lotion.

CRÈME MAKE-UP PURE = Crème Make-up Pure
CLEANSING CREAM / SKINCARE CREAM = Cleansing Cream
MULTI REMOVER = Multi Remover
MAKE-UP REMOVER = Make-up Remover
CLEANSING LOTION = Cleansing Lotion
CLEARING UP THE MATERIALS

Store the make-up in a dry and cool place until the next time you use it.

The sponges are disposable so you can throw them away after use. If you do want to reuse them, first rinse them under the tap with some soap or shampoo or wash them in the washing machine (in a net bag or pillow case), set to at least 60°C.

You can clean brushes with water and soap or shampoo. Put the moist hairs of the brushes back into shape by hand after washing. Dry the brushes lying flat on a towel and do not place them upright, since that causes the moisture to run down into the shaft.


PRODUCTS


CRÈME MAKE-UP PURE = Crème Make-up Pure

PLASTIC SPATULA = Plastic Spatula

LATEX SPONGES = Latex Sponges

WATER MAKE-UP (PURE) = Water Make-up Pure

MAKE-UP PENCIL = Make-up Pencil

Transparent Powder

STIPPEL SPONGE = Stipple sponge

BRUSHES RED SABLE-HAIR = Brushes Red Sable-Hair

BRUSHES RED SABLE-HAIR = Brushes Red Sable-Hair

MAKE-UP SPONGE = Make-up Sponge

BRUSHES POWDER ROUGE = Brushes Powder/Rouge

VELOUR POWDER PUFF = Velour Powder Puff
CAKE MAKE-UP = Cake Make-up
EYESHADOW/ROUGE = Eyeshadow/Rouge
CLEANSING CREAM / SKINCARE CREAM = Cleansing Cream
CLEANSING LOTION = Cleansing Lotion